sunhokey 2015 prusa i3 diy kit
This manual is for those who have purchased the Sunhokey 2015 Prusa i3 DIY kit and are eager to get it to work to the best possible state without breaking the bank.
I will share some of the problems I have with this 3D printer and how I have overcome them.
I\'m at solidovel 2, 3, 4, Press and workbench and Dual-
Manufacturer of feed extruder.
This DIY printer caught my attention as the nozzle fan came along with it (
However, I was frustrated to find that it didn\'t come with the nozzle fan)
And the price is $360 (
The quality was very cheap at the time, and now the price is $299 after 4 months)
There is free FedEx transport and 2 kg free fiber, PLA or ABS.
This is also the bowden configuration, I have not touched it and fedex would like to try it.
Another reason is that I found a YouTube Uber, Hiboson, which will build a model of Sunhokey, sadly I have finished the assembly before his video series starts, and starting to fix the problem that I am facing myself, I have gone through his latest video and apparently his version is the old version, not the 2015 version, which comes with the nozzle fan.
His video series is a detailed step-by-step breakdown and his experience with the machine, be sure to check out his video if you\'re interested.
My first test print, I\'m testing if hotend can squeeze out continuously, but I noticed that even at the highest temperature close to 802c (
Since the extruder reaches the maximum temperature, the printer is automatically turned off)
, The printer cannot be continuously squeezed out.
I then unplugged the cooling fan and thought the fan prevented the nozzle from reaching the proper temperature, and then I knew my water pipe was blocked. (
In any case, when hotend is heated and equipped with filament, do not unplug its cooling fan, which is to keep the material in solid state before it reaches a hot break).
While thinking further about why the nozzle can\'t be squeezed out, I found myself the culprit
Assemble hotend.
The video from the supplier shows that hotend is pre-
Assembled, but mine didn\'t, I fixed it without thinking about it.
After careful thought, dredging the nozzle and fixing the nozzle the way I thought it would be best, I finally got it working properly.
If I find the youtube video of Bruno M.
Then, it may make my life easier.
He actually took a different piece of metal to fix his cabin, but his tips on how to dredge and reassemble sound really good.
In this video, he shows how to assemble hotend similar to the hotend provided by Sunhokey, except that he includes improvements to change the hotend throat to a full metal throat. (
Instead of using the four-fluorine tube provided to use the four-fluorine tube in the hotend throat)
I actually decided to make this guide when I took this DIY 3D printer with me because I thought the blower fan (Nozzle fan)was included (
As shown in their demo video, but not included, so I went out fedex of my way to design the bracket for the blower (
Use CAD software and modify the old Sunhokey model from ZiegeOne version, which can be fixed with the remaining screws and nuts of Sunhokey.
After purchasing a blower locally, printed my design, modified it, printed it again, finally fixed it and tried to print it with it.
After my first big print (
Nerf dart gun, my main concern is that it really needs a shell because without it, layer separation happens randomly at a higher z-axis level, seriously weakening the strength between layers.
When I pushed my darts with too many rubber bands, my flying gun broke on the lowest surface accumulation layer and I washed it too badly before sticking the two halves together, I forgot to put the bolt carrier group back and have to design a two-piece carrier for it in the future.
Search the web to find out how other people make shipping fences.
After carefully searching the Ikea website for a potential shell, I went to Ikea and got 3 items (Warning!
Move home with your hands. These are very heavy)1.
Ikea stuva frame 60x50x64 cm (SGD35)
Article No. : 201. 651. 70 (11. 22kg)2.
60x64 cm (Ikea SINDVIK glass door)SGD35)
Article No. : 702. 918. 59 (4. 85kg)3.
Ikea Pepsi soft close/push two-open hinge (SGD10 each)
Article No. : 802. 612. 58 (0. 26kg)(
For item 3, if you don\'t have a holesaw on hand, you may just want to buy one, as the front door of my shell needs to drill some 32mm diameter holes on the 3mm thick scrap board to install the hinges)
Instead of using the cardboard back panel, I put the frame on the back and the glass door on the top.
I made the bottom plate into the front door.
Another problem is that since I didn\'t install the radiator on the motor stepping motor chip, one of them died shortly after I finished printing the first test device for the nozzle fan bracket.
Please make sure to put the radiator on the motor stepping chip.
After buying a replacement from ebay, I was still worried about overheating and I took a 80mm fan (
From the previous desktop)
Took some chopsticks and ties and created a 80mm fan to cool the electronics.
The installation method and dim design of the LCD control shipping panel let me look for a replacement in thingiverse.
Found one but it was to be installed in front so I edited it to be able to install it on it as the shell I chose was opaque and the front door of this box
However, after printing it out ,(
Stick the tape to the corner of the print when printing to prevent further warping)
I realized using the tape and glue provided
In the long run, stick doesn\'t really cut it, especially for large print areas.
I searched the internet and found this one.
When I receive it, it updates how it works.
If not, may have to go back to the tested Glass bed and hairspray.
Please go to download.
Stl of Sunhokey 2015 Prusa i3 nozzle fan bracket group. 40-print it out
100% fill, there will be 7 separate sections without support.
I use the Cura settings provided by Sunhokey for printing.
Prepare the following from the rest of the kit. 1. M3 x 12 (2pcs)2. M3 x 16 (3pcs)3. M3 x 25 (4pcs)4. M3 x 30 (1pcs)5. M3 Flange Nut (2pcs)6. M3 Nut (6pcs)
Source A blower 51x15mm 12v DC (
Extend at least 70 cm, excluding the length of the fedex original line, either by looking for someone to do it or by doing it yourself)
Get the printed parts and the remaining parts from the kit and start removing the current hotend assembly.
Fix parts similar to the 3d printed fan holder parts provided on the left with M3 x12 screws and M3 flange nuts.
Fix the screw in place using the M3 allen key while turning the nut clockwise to tighten it.
As shown in Figure 2, fix the other piece with a hole with a horizontal axis.
Fix the extruder assembly with M3 x 16 screws and nuts.
Loosen and remove the nut on the right side of the Assembly, slide the cooling fan bracket between the metal plate and the acrylic plate, fix it together with the M3 x 16 screw and nut, and use tweezers.
The fan can then be mounted to the cooling fan holder with an M3 x 25 screw and nut.
The other corner of the cooling fan is then secured with an M3 x25 screw and nut to the right blower fan bracket adapter.
Twist it until the heater box and the thermal resistor on the heater face away from the cooling fan.
This will ensure that the cooling fan does not seriously affect the temperature during printing.
Fix the small 3D printing fixture on the cooling fan holder with M3 x 16 screws.
The cooling fan holder for 3D printing needs some work by chamfer the holes connected by the small 3D printing fixture and then pushing the screws into the holes to generate the thread.
The small 3D printing fixture may need to expand its hole in order to easily secure the M3 x 16 screw on the cooling fan holder.
Add M3 nut to the hole in the cooling fan bracket, which is slightly blocked by the cooling fan.
Press to install the blower fan adapter into the flange nut.
Insert M3 x 30 screws and nuts as shown in the figure.
Install the M3 x 25 screw with a 3D printed gasket to the upper left corner, which holds the blower to the flange nut.
Install the last M3 x 25 screw to the bottom right, please note that you may have to lift the cooling fan holder to engage the screw with the cooling fan holder.
Once engaged, push the cooling fan onto the cooling fan holder to prevent the nut from falling off and continue to tighten/tighten the screw all the time using the Allen key.
Insert the nozzle fan into the nozzle fan bracket/blower fan adapter and tighten the M3 x 30 screws and nuts to hold the nozzle fan.
Insert the wire end of the blower into the port marked with the fan and carefully insert the negative pole (black)
Insert the wires into the negative and positive poles (red)
Insert the wire into the positive terminal, which allows the blower to be controlled by gcode.
Get a 80mm fan, some chopsticks and twities, create a rectangular scaffold and tie it to the fan as the basis for supporting the 80mm fan to fall over.
The sticker side is the side where the fan blows, making sure it faces the electronic board and that there will be no Miscellaneous lines stuck during operation.
Insert the 80mm fan into the same pin array that the cooling fan is plugged into, if not sure, please refer to the documentation that comes with the DVD.
Choose from the back or front, mine is the back (accidentally)
When I realized that I needed to enter the bed freely from another direction and replace the tape after each print.
But I have printed out the wrong design and may see the correct position later using the flap saw.
If you\'re still printing with tape, use some glue-
Stick to the area used when the bed is hot and be ready for continuous lifting/warping from four corners.
I think one thing that would help is to take some tape and when the print is on --
As long as the first layer is complete, diagonal tape along each of the four corners should help until you get a piece of glass and hairspray, or use the blue painter\'s tape, kappton tape or maybe a piece of construction or anything you can get for a reasonable price.
Add a proper surface to the print and report my efforts. 2.
To post the Cura settings I\'m using, the Cura settings for Sunhokey are very slow (
The LCD case is printed for 22 hours and is set to 9 hours by default)
But for the nozzle fan, the default Cura setting works fine, but I need further experiments and adjustments only under the slowest setting. 3.
Think about whether I should have come up with twice as much money for a whole press as a DIY kit in the first place, but heck, I learned a lot about building and using this printer.
Like in our workplace.
Ordered a Press for $299 and before it finally arrived I treated it as an external card and it had a lot of initial issues to solve but that was because we spent a lot less money, it\'s actually a pretty good 3D printer, and that\'s it once you know what you\'re doing. (
Read the forum every day whenever there is free time)
Enter M851 z3
5 enter the Repetier Host to switch the Z offset, pull the cable sleeve out before each print, adjust the bed screws and push the glass bed in frustrating, thus breaking the supplied bed, had to buy another one.
Design a fan holder to fit the fan in the front of the press extruder so I can use a temperature above 230 degrees.
Hear the death sound from the extruder and go through the smoke from the connector burning insulation, just like I did the trouble shooting outside (
Push the wire into the connector or angle to cause Sparks).
It was nice that they solved all of these issues for those who later paid more/brought.
But work is work. It\'s a hobby. I
I will share some of the problems I have with this 3D printer and how I have overcome them.
I\'m at solidovel 2, 3, 4, Press and workbench and Dual-
Manufacturer of feed extruder.
This DIY printer caught my attention as the nozzle fan came along with it (
However, I was frustrated to find that it didn\'t come with the nozzle fan)
And the price is $360 (
The quality was very cheap at the time, and now the price is $299 after 4 months)
There is free FedEx transport and 2 kg free fiber, PLA or ABS.
This is also the bowden configuration, I have not touched it and fedex would like to try it.
Another reason is that I found a YouTube Uber, Hiboson, which will build a model of Sunhokey, sadly I have finished the assembly before his video series starts, and starting to fix the problem that I am facing myself, I have gone through his latest video and apparently his version is the old version, not the 2015 version, which comes with the nozzle fan.
His video series is a detailed step-by-step breakdown and his experience with the machine, be sure to check out his video if you\'re interested.
My first test print, I\'m testing if hotend can squeeze out continuously, but I noticed that even at the highest temperature close to 802c (
Since the extruder reaches the maximum temperature, the printer is automatically turned off)
, The printer cannot be continuously squeezed out.
I then unplugged the cooling fan and thought the fan prevented the nozzle from reaching the proper temperature, and then I knew my water pipe was blocked. (
In any case, when hotend is heated and equipped with filament, do not unplug its cooling fan, which is to keep the material in solid state before it reaches a hot break).
While thinking further about why the nozzle can\'t be squeezed out, I found myself the culprit
Assemble hotend.
The video from the supplier shows that hotend is pre-
Assembled, but mine didn\'t, I fixed it without thinking about it.
After careful thought, dredging the nozzle and fixing the nozzle the way I thought it would be best, I finally got it working properly.
If I find the youtube video of Bruno M.
Then, it may make my life easier.
He actually took a different piece of metal to fix his cabin, but his tips on how to dredge and reassemble sound really good.
In this video, he shows how to assemble hotend similar to the hotend provided by Sunhokey, except that he includes improvements to change the hotend throat to a full metal throat. (
Instead of using the four-fluorine tube provided to use the four-fluorine tube in the hotend throat)
I actually decided to make this guide when I took this DIY 3D printer with me because I thought the blower fan (Nozzle fan)was included (
As shown in their demo video, but not included, so I went out fedex of my way to design the bracket for the blower (
Use CAD software and modify the old Sunhokey model from ZiegeOne version, which can be fixed with the remaining screws and nuts of Sunhokey.
After purchasing a blower locally, printed my design, modified it, printed it again, finally fixed it and tried to print it with it.
After my first big print (
Nerf dart gun, my main concern is that it really needs a shell because without it, layer separation happens randomly at a higher z-axis level, seriously weakening the strength between layers.
When I pushed my darts with too many rubber bands, my flying gun broke on the lowest surface accumulation layer and I washed it too badly before sticking the two halves together, I forgot to put the bolt carrier group back and have to design a two-piece carrier for it in the future.
Search the web to find out how other people make shipping fences.
After carefully searching the Ikea website for a potential shell, I went to Ikea and got 3 items (Warning!
Move home with your hands. These are very heavy)1.
Ikea stuva frame 60x50x64 cm (SGD35)
Article No. : 201. 651. 70 (11. 22kg)2.
60x64 cm (Ikea SINDVIK glass door)SGD35)
Article No. : 702. 918. 59 (4. 85kg)3.
Ikea Pepsi soft close/push two-open hinge (SGD10 each)
Article No. : 802. 612. 58 (0. 26kg)(
For item 3, if you don\'t have a holesaw on hand, you may just want to buy one, as the front door of my shell needs to drill some 32mm diameter holes on the 3mm thick scrap board to install the hinges)
Instead of using the cardboard back panel, I put the frame on the back and the glass door on the top.
I made the bottom plate into the front door.
Another problem is that since I didn\'t install the radiator on the motor stepping motor chip, one of them died shortly after I finished printing the first test device for the nozzle fan bracket.
Please make sure to put the radiator on the motor stepping chip.
After buying a replacement from ebay, I was still worried about overheating and I took a 80mm fan (
From the previous desktop)
Took some chopsticks and ties and created a 80mm fan to cool the electronics.
The installation method and dim design of the LCD control shipping panel let me look for a replacement in thingiverse.
Found one but it was to be installed in front so I edited it to be able to install it on it as the shell I chose was opaque and the front door of this box
However, after printing it out ,(
Stick the tape to the corner of the print when printing to prevent further warping)
I realized using the tape and glue provided
In the long run, stick doesn\'t really cut it, especially for large print areas.
I searched the internet and found this one.
When I receive it, it updates how it works.
If not, may have to go back to the tested Glass bed and hairspray.
Please go to download.
Stl of Sunhokey 2015 Prusa i3 nozzle fan bracket group. 40-print it out
100% fill, there will be 7 separate sections without support.
I use the Cura settings provided by Sunhokey for printing.
Prepare the following from the rest of the kit. 1. M3 x 12 (2pcs)2. M3 x 16 (3pcs)3. M3 x 25 (4pcs)4. M3 x 30 (1pcs)5. M3 Flange Nut (2pcs)6. M3 Nut (6pcs)
Source A blower 51x15mm 12v DC (
Extend at least 70 cm, excluding the length of the fedex original line, either by looking for someone to do it or by doing it yourself)
Get the printed parts and the remaining parts from the kit and start removing the current hotend assembly.
Fix parts similar to the 3d printed fan holder parts provided on the left with M3 x12 screws and M3 flange nuts.
Fix the screw in place using the M3 allen key while turning the nut clockwise to tighten it.
As shown in Figure 2, fix the other piece with a hole with a horizontal axis.
Fix the extruder assembly with M3 x 16 screws and nuts.
Loosen and remove the nut on the right side of the Assembly, slide the cooling fan bracket between the metal plate and the acrylic plate, fix it together with the M3 x 16 screw and nut, and use tweezers.
The fan can then be mounted to the cooling fan holder with an M3 x 25 screw and nut.
The other corner of the cooling fan is then secured with an M3 x25 screw and nut to the right blower fan bracket adapter.
Twist it until the heater box and the thermal resistor on the heater face away from the cooling fan.
This will ensure that the cooling fan does not seriously affect the temperature during printing.
Fix the small 3D printing fixture on the cooling fan holder with M3 x 16 screws.
The cooling fan holder for 3D printing needs some work by chamfer the holes connected by the small 3D printing fixture and then pushing the screws into the holes to generate the thread.
The small 3D printing fixture may need to expand its hole in order to easily secure the M3 x 16 screw on the cooling fan holder.
Add M3 nut to the hole in the cooling fan bracket, which is slightly blocked by the cooling fan.
Press to install the blower fan adapter into the flange nut.
Insert M3 x 30 screws and nuts as shown in the figure.
Install the M3 x 25 screw with a 3D printed gasket to the upper left corner, which holds the blower to the flange nut.
Install the last M3 x 25 screw to the bottom right, please note that you may have to lift the cooling fan holder to engage the screw with the cooling fan holder.
Once engaged, push the cooling fan onto the cooling fan holder to prevent the nut from falling off and continue to tighten/tighten the screw all the time using the Allen key.
Insert the nozzle fan into the nozzle fan bracket/blower fan adapter and tighten the M3 x 30 screws and nuts to hold the nozzle fan.
Insert the wire end of the blower into the port marked with the fan and carefully insert the negative pole (black)
Insert the wires into the negative and positive poles (red)
Insert the wire into the positive terminal, which allows the blower to be controlled by gcode.
Get a 80mm fan, some chopsticks and twities, create a rectangular scaffold and tie it to the fan as the basis for supporting the 80mm fan to fall over.
The sticker side is the side where the fan blows, making sure it faces the electronic board and that there will be no Miscellaneous lines stuck during operation.
Insert the 80mm fan into the same pin array that the cooling fan is plugged into, if not sure, please refer to the documentation that comes with the DVD.
Choose from the back or front, mine is the back (accidentally)
When I realized that I needed to enter the bed freely from another direction and replace the tape after each print.
But I have printed out the wrong design and may see the correct position later using the flap saw.
If you\'re still printing with tape, use some glue-
Stick to the area used when the bed is hot and be ready for continuous lifting/warping from four corners.
I think one thing that would help is to take some tape and when the print is on --
As long as the first layer is complete, diagonal tape along each of the four corners should help until you get a piece of glass and hairspray, or use the blue painter\'s tape, kappton tape or maybe a piece of construction or anything you can get for a reasonable price.
Add a proper surface to the print and report my efforts. 2.
To post the Cura settings I\'m using, the Cura settings for Sunhokey are very slow (
The LCD case is printed for 22 hours and is set to 9 hours by default)
But for the nozzle fan, the default Cura setting works fine, but I need further experiments and adjustments only under the slowest setting. 3.
Think about whether I should have come up with twice as much money for a whole press as a DIY kit in the first place, but heck, I learned a lot about building and using this printer.
Like in our workplace.
Ordered a Press for $299 and before it finally arrived I treated it as an external card and it had a lot of initial issues to solve but that was because we spent a lot less money, it\'s actually a pretty good 3D printer, and that\'s it once you know what you\'re doing. (
Read the forum every day whenever there is free time)
Enter M851 z3
5 enter the Repetier Host to switch the Z offset, pull the cable sleeve out before each print, adjust the bed screws and push the glass bed in frustrating, thus breaking the supplied bed, had to buy another one.
Design a fan holder to fit the fan in the front of the press extruder so I can use a temperature above 230 degrees.
Hear the death sound from the extruder and go through the smoke from the connector burning insulation, just like I did the trouble shooting outside (
Push the wire into the connector or angle to cause Sparks).
It was nice that they solved all of these issues for those who later paid more/brought.
But work is work. It\'s a hobby. I
Comments
Post a Comment